Once upon a time, chefs did not have to cope with the challenge of garnishing a pig’s face for service. These chefs would place an order for tenderloins and chops and—presto!—there was half of the ...

The pig’s head on the plate is staring up at me in silent rebuke as I debate how best to set forth on the task in hand. I’m trying hard not to be squeamish. After all, I love meat and am a moderately ...